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Loden cloth; melton loden; fashionable loden; see loden; winter loden

mid- to heavyweight woollen fabric which is coarse to the touch. We distinguish between several types of l. by the length of the pile; mostly it is woven from single carded yarns. L. is produced in characteristic olive, brown, green and grey melanges, which give it its strength. Used for work, hunting and sports coats. Summer l. is more lightweight, has a linen weave structure which is concealed slightly by the short pile, and is porous, soft to the touch and given an impregnation treatment. Melton l. is midweight and its surface has no pile; it is in linen, circassian or combined twill weave which is full to the touch. Fashionable l. is soft to the touch and has a short-pile surface which conceals slightly its linen, laskas or cirkassian weave; typically it is patterned. Tricot l. is midweight, elastic to thetouch, and has a short-pile surface, leaving visible the diagonal or vertical rows of the tricot weave; the back is felted. Winter l. is a heavyweight fabric with a short pile which conceals its twill weave completely. Its name is derived from the Middle High German "Lode" (= tuft of hairs), and also from the Austrian mountain region Loderers, where l. was originally produced. Vide also ulster cloth.

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